The frame is now recoated, RAL 3020, Traffic Red. A bit brighter than I had really wanted but as I'll get the rest of the paintwork to match it should all look the same.
I had it coated by a firm in Kilmarnock, most of it is OK but they promised to press out the swingarm bearings and never bothered, instead powdercoating them in place and affecting the finish around the bearing by allowing the grease to run out and spoil the finish, Sloppy work but it wont be seen when the swingarm is refitted thankfully, I'll need to take it to a local bikeshop who'll press out the old bearings and refit the shiny new bronze ones I have bought.

The seal kits for the carbs have arrived and I'll wait until I have cleaned the carb bodies up properly before reassembling them, I may yet have to send them away to get this done properly.

The first of the forks is now disassembled, I puzzled awhile over the circlips holding the seals in place as there seemed no obvious way to get them out, but when the grime was wiped away I noticed one end was tapered out and the other tapered into the fork bottoms, a small screwdriver was then used to catch one end and lever it inwards and upwards slightly which gave me enough purchase to remove it completely.
 I'll make a start on stripping the horrible red paint first but both slider legs will need rechromed which is a real pain, it explains how they were both leaking though.
As with may of these little jobs, its only when you start them you find your missing a little tool to make it a straightforward task, in this case a 12mm allan key to undo the top fork bolt.

Gubbins

A Dellorto VHBZ 25BS carburettor

Pretty much all the seals are past it and will need replaced.
A new seal kit is ordered and I'll fit them after I clean all the little bits. The internal components don't look too bad actually, I think I'll have a trickier task getting the outside of it clean.
The throttle stop screw was 2 full turns and one eighth turn out from fully in.

After a week of blow torching and hammering I've decided to take the frame into Carrick Engineering in Prestwick, for a modest amount they'll remove the broken bolt and sleeve using acetylene torches and brute force meaning I can then strip the frame and feel like I'm starting to something constructive rather than destructive.

Recognising I don't have the appropriate tools to do these jobs is something that I'll realise quicker in the future though half the fun is in trying yourself.
At least its not occupying all of my time now and I'll start with stripping the powdercoat first.
I'll fire up the blowtorch and hope it doesn't rain all weekend.The other alternative is traditional paint stripper which is fairly ineffective against powdercoat so I'm told or gasket stripper which is fierce but quite nasty stuff to work with.

The bearing cups are off and I removed the steering lock, annoyingly the little lock cover you can see in the previous pictures went flying into space when I hammered it off, I then wasted the best part of an hour looking for it before resigning myself to making another one from brass sheet.
I was all ready to drill out the lock and just quickly checked a website for info on the exact drilling point to avoid the hardened tumblers inside when I noticed 'the quick way'- number 3 on here-
http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/lock/index.htm
14 seconds later the lock was out.

Just as one sheared bolt is fixed another two come along to try my patience, I think I'll grind off the captive nuts on this though and get new ones tacked on in the same position.

I have found that you can get clamp that encircles the pipe with a captive bolt attached and that may be an easier option meaning I just need to grind of the broken bolts and clean up any remaining weld.

The first shiny thing arrives

A new set of exhaust nuts came through the post surprisingly quickly from Italy.
It's the first thing I've 'fixed', only the rest of the bike to go now.

I've also decided to attempt a repair on the tank badges and side panel logos, these were very tatty and I would normally just replace them, however, they are an eye watering £58 per pair for each badge, that's £116 for four bits of plastic.

I have cleaned them and rebuilt the broken piece using parts of a sprue holding a model kit.
This may not work or look convincing when finished as I haven't yet found a decent coating to replicate the chrome but it's worth a try just due to the costs of the replacement parts.

Frame is nearly apart, only a couple of bearing holders and the centrestand to come off, the pivot nut on the stand sheared so I'm not sure how to tackle that yet.

I'm sure the bearing cups just push out but I'll check that before bashing away with a mallet first.