After a week of blow torching and hammering I've decided to take the frame into Carrick Engineering in Prestwick, for a modest amount they'll remove the broken bolt and sleeve using acetylene torches and brute force meaning I can then strip the frame and feel like I'm starting to something constructive rather than destructive.

Recognising I don't have the appropriate tools to do these jobs is something that I'll realise quicker in the future though half the fun is in trying yourself.
At least its not occupying all of my time now and I'll start with stripping the powdercoat first.
I'll fire up the blowtorch and hope it doesn't rain all weekend.The other alternative is traditional paint stripper which is fairly ineffective against powdercoat so I'm told or gasket stripper which is fierce but quite nasty stuff to work with.

The bearing cups are off and I removed the steering lock, annoyingly the little lock cover you can see in the previous pictures went flying into space when I hammered it off, I then wasted the best part of an hour looking for it before resigning myself to making another one from brass sheet.
I was all ready to drill out the lock and just quickly checked a website for info on the exact drilling point to avoid the hardened tumblers inside when I noticed 'the quick way'- number 3 on here-
http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/lock/index.htm
14 seconds later the lock was out.

Just as one sheared bolt is fixed another two come along to try my patience, I think I'll grind off the captive nuts on this though and get new ones tacked on in the same position.

I have found that you can get clamp that encircles the pipe with a captive bolt attached and that may be an easier option meaning I just need to grind of the broken bolts and clean up any remaining weld.

The first shiny thing arrives

A new set of exhaust nuts came through the post surprisingly quickly from Italy.
It's the first thing I've 'fixed', only the rest of the bike to go now.

I've also decided to attempt a repair on the tank badges and side panel logos, these were very tatty and I would normally just replace them, however, they are an eye watering £58 per pair for each badge, that's £116 for four bits of plastic.

I have cleaned them and rebuilt the broken piece using parts of a sprue holding a model kit.
This may not work or look convincing when finished as I haven't yet found a decent coating to replicate the chrome but it's worth a try just due to the costs of the replacement parts.

Frame is nearly apart, only a couple of bearing holders and the centrestand to come off, the pivot nut on the stand sheared so I'm not sure how to tackle that yet.

I'm sure the bearing cups just push out but I'll check that before bashing away with a mallet first.

The engine is now out and on a bench, a juggling act involving a car jack and short length of wood to manoeuvre the engine out through the right side of the frame, once it had released itself from the rear mounts it was a relatively straightforward task, it's not heavy just awkward.

Surprisingly light though it will need a clean, the flywheel nut has been cracked, I'll do the belt change and that side of things later, I'll also need to sort the clutch side where a little oil leak had started to show, that'll need the clutch out first, all in due course though.

The rolling frame was then rolled out.

I then power washed the frame to get the worst of the greasy grime from it and will tackle the swing arm and forks next. It'll all get recoated in time but cleaning it now makes handling it a lot easier in the meantime.

Wheels are now at the side awaiting further attention.

The flywheel nut is undone.

Not an easy one man job I have to admit, thats why I asked for help holding the flywheel while the nut was
undone with a breaker bar!
A simple yet irritating job thats awkward if your on your own.